Wednesday, December 18, 2019

Cuba - Visiting Cienfuegos

If you haven’t read my Cuba pre-travel tips, check them out here.

Other posts from this trip can be found using the label Cuba2018.

Day 2, Part 2 – Cienfuegos


Downtown Cienfuegos


Back in Cienfuegos we had an afternoon break and watched a storm roll in from our balcony. 

PB060130

Next up: a walking tour of Cienfuegos. We walked along the Prado, down a pedestrian-only street, and to Parque José Martí. The architecture in town is beautiful. There were lots of people out and about, on foot, or bike, or even with carts selling fresh fruit. We saw the shops where locals can buy their household essentials and produce, but didn’t go in. We also had a short discussion about healthcare in Cuba with our local guide, while standing outside a pharmacy. Doctors in Cuba are well trained, and all healthcare is free (you must pay for medications, but the prices are subsidized). However, doctors are mostly located in bigger cities and medication is scarce on the island.


PB060132
Cienfuegos blues

PB060136
Statue of musician Benny Moré on The Prado

PB060133
The Prado

PB060143
The pedestrian street

PB060152
Pineapples for sale!

 PB060153
Abandoned streetcar tracks

PB060156
My favorite building in Cienfuegos matches the sky after a rainstorm  

Concierto Sur

The absolute highlight of the trip for me was a private performance by Concierto Sur, a local chamber orchestra. They were incredible!

PB060182
Concierto Sur


In their own words, ‘much like Gershwin brought jazz to Broadway, they want to infuse their Cuban musical heritage into classical music’.

Here’s a video (by someone else), with a slightly different lineup:


I can’t get over how much I enjoyed their performance, and you can bet that I bought a CD and had everyone sign it.

Here's one more video (also by someone else), in case you can’t get enough of their music:

Reeling from the beautiful music we just experienced, we headed back towards the hotel and had dinner on the water at Villa Lagarto. Somehow there were no mosquitoes!

IMG_9453
The name of the restaurant means “lizard”, but the menu was chicken... and squash!

IMG_9455
Be careful on these swinging barstools after you’ve had a few drinks!

After dinner we stopped at the Hotel Jagua bar for drinks. What do you call a Cuba Libre if you use 7-year dark rum instead of blanco?

PB060196
A Cubata – my new favorite drink!  


My complete set of Cienfuegos photos can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/robotbrainz/albums/72157702183404681.

Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Cuba - Arrivals and Touring Trinidad

If you haven’t read my Cuba pre-travel tips, check them out here.

Other posts from this trip can be found using the label Cuba2018.

Ok, let’s go!

Day 1 – Arrival, Cienfuegos


Arrival


We flew from Miami, Florida to Santa Clara, Cuba. Santa Clara is a small airport. We deplaned onto the runway and went inside the airport building. Time to get our passports stamped into Cuba!

The group leaders tried to keep us all together, but the lines moved at different rates, and somehow I was the last person in our group to make it through the big wooden doors (ie: I couldn’t see anyone from the group!). The Passport Control guard checked my passport and paperwork, said “wait”, took my passport to some other guard, came back, waited for another guard to come over, they looked at my passport more, and finally let me through. I was thrilled to catch up to the group on the other side of the doors. Next, I took my carry-on items through security (my camera and lenses weren’t a problem, but my Kindle raised some eyebrows), and then waited with the group for our checked luggage. Once everyone had collected their items we headed for our bus to Cienfuegos.

Upon landing in Cuba, you immediately notice some differences. The smells are different (diesel). There are palm trees everywhere, and it’s more humid than the northeastern US (which is saying something). Oh, and the female airport employees wear fishnet stockings. Who knew?

On the Road to Cienfuegos


Our local guide welcomed us onto the bus and began to set the stage for our activities that night and the following day. The bus ride was interesting. Though it was dark, we could see in some of the houses along our route through Santa Clara. We spent long stretches of time on roads that looked like highways but then had a roundabout intersection every so often. There wasn’t much other traffic, and I was struck by just how dark it was without lights from other vehicles or many streetlights. It took us about 1.5 hours to reach Cienfuegos. We got off the bus at our hotel and got our first taste of Cuba: a welcome dinner in the courtyard next to the Palacio de Valle.

PB050003
Dinner is served!

PB050007 
Musicians serenading us for dinner… what a welcome!

The Palacio de Valle is an incredible building. It was stunning at night, but you could see even more of the intricate façade during the day. InHavana has more information on the Palacio and some of its symbolism: http://www.inhavana.net/palacio-valle-symbolism-luxury-museum/.

PB050002
The Moorish-style Palacio de Valle was built in 1917

We stayed at Hotel Jagua. The rooms were sparse but nice. The air conditioner was no match for the humidity, but kept the room cool. I had to give my camera time to acclimate every morning before removing my lens cap or changing lenses. In the morning we were treated to an incredible view:

PB060121
Palacio de Valle and the Cienfuegos Bay

Day 2, Part 1 – Trinidad


Walking Tour of Trinidad


PB060045

To kick off the day we boarded the bus for another 1.5 hour drive, this time to the beautiful and historic town of Trinidad. The city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site, primarily for its colonial architecture. Our local guide gave us a walking tour through the city center, including a visit to a ration shop. Families are given a book to track what they’re provided each month. Typically, this includes a small ration of rice and beans, maybe a tiny bit of chicken, and a huge ration of sugar. What do you do with all that extra sugar? Make rum! Oh, and rum is not rationed. You can buy as much rum as you want. There's lots of rum here.

PB060056
Inside a Cuban ration shop

PB060065
Another ration shop. 
Stock varies greatly from shop to shop.

We visited the home of a local painter, Carlos Mata Pich. We toured his home/studio, had some fresh guava juice, and admired his artwork. His house was built in the 1700s and he renovated it himself. It was a beautiful place, with a very pretty courtyard. Mata’s paintings of Trinidad were wonderful. He’s known as the ‘night painter of Trinidad’ because he perfectly captures the scenes around his hometown at night. You can see some of his work here: https://mata.artelista.com/en/

PB060091
The picturesque courtyard at Mata’s home and studio

PB060101
Vintage floor tiles in Mata’s home and studio

We ate lunch, walked around town a bit more, visited some of the outdoor markets, and boarded the bus back to Cienfuegos as the sky started to look a little ominous.

I'll finish out Day 2 in the next post. Here are some photos of Trinidad to hold you over!


PB060073
Outdoor market in Trinidad

PB060047 PB060055
Hat shop

PB060053
Apparently, birdkeeping is a popular Cuban hobby. 
You set a trap in the woods and wait, and wait, and wait until you catch a bird. 
Then you train the bird to sing, and sometimes compete with other birdkeepers.

PB060042

PB060064

PB060106
An iconic view of the historical center of Trinidad

PB060119

PB060084
That's a Ford Taunus, not a Taurus...

PB060110
A child playing with a homemade kite

PB060041
The ruins of Iglesia de Santa Ana


My complete set of Trinidad photos can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/robotbrainz/albums/72157700444749652.

Sunday, December 1, 2019

Cuba - Preparing for the Trip of a Lifetime

In 2018, I traveled from the US to Cuba. I’m just now finally writing about it. This post will focus on what you need to know before traveling.

PB070339
The Bacardi Building from Hotel Sevilla

Can US citizens still go to Cuba?


Just a few short years ago, the US made it easier for US citizens to travel to Cuba. Today there are daily flights to Cuba from many major airports, including Newark, Charlotte, and Miami. It should be noted that US citizens still may not travel to Cuba for “tourism” purposes. Your visit must fall under one of the 12 11 categories approved by the Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). More information can be found here: https://cu.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services/local-resources-of-u-s-citizens/traveling-to-cuba/

Most group trips and cruises formerly operated on the People-to-People general license. Travel under this license is no longer allowed as of June 2019, but US citizens can still visit Cuba under one of the 11 other general licenses. More information on the changes can be found here: https://www.viahero.com/travel-to-cuba/new-cuba-travel-policy-updates.

Cruise lines took the biggest hit when People-To-People was discontinued, but there are still some other group trips out there. These trips often operate under the ‘Support For The Cuban People’ license.

PB080453
Music is everywhere in Cuba!


Group Travel


US citizens can travel to Cuba as individuals or part of a group. There were many benefits to traveling with a group and I’d highly recommend it.
  • Logistics are taken care of. They’ll likely get your visa for you, book your flights, and arrange ground transportation to coincide with flight times. You can still practice your Spanish and interact with locals, but won't need to worry about how to get from A to B. (Mass transit in Cuba isn’t the greatest, and nothing is for sure in Cuba.) You get to spend all of your time learning/observing/enjoying, instead of planning your next move.
  • Groups have access to things/events individuals don’t. I got to visit the US Embassy, a local school, a nursing home, and attend lectures by a Cuban economics professor and a Havana city architect. I certainly couldn’t have arranged any of that on my own.
  • Safety. Cuba is safe. But if something goes wrong (canceled flights, hotel rooms double-booked, miscommunications… whatever!), your group leader can handle the situation for you. Even if you left your First Aid kit at home (please bring first aid supplies with you), your group leader should be able to help.
  • Documentation. US citizens are required to retain all documentation and receipts yeeeears (5? 7?) after traveling to Cuba. If you go with a group, they are responsible for most of this. Just remember to keep any receipts you do have. If you buy an expensive souvenir it is a good idea to request a receipt. 
  • The People. Everyone on our trip was interesting, nice, and there to learn about the people of Cuba; it was a great group to be part of. Our tour director was an experienced traveler, and our local guide was amazing. He was willing to share so much about his country and his life with us. We couldn't really get to know everyone we visited in Cuba, but we spent over a week with our guide, day in and day out. By the end of the trip we had really connected.

PB070340
Looking over the Prado onto Centro Habana

Travel Tips


Traveling to Cuba isn’t much different than traveling anywhere else in the world. You just have to be extra prepared because you can’t buy an extra phone charger or memory card there. This isn’t an exhaustive list, but here are some things to note:

Don’t drink the tap water. It’s probably fine, but it’s really not worth the risk. Jimmy used a Grayl camp/survival filter which worked well, but bottled water is readily available. Another benefit of traveling with a group is that they’ll likely have more bottled water on hand than you’ll ever need! I usually took a bottle or two to my hotel room at the end of each day for use when brushing my teeth and to stay hydrated overnight.

To help mask the mineral taste Cuban water has, I put half of a Nuun tablet into my water bottles. It added some flavor and helped with hydration in that tropical heat!

Debit/credit cards won’t work in Cuba, especially if affiliated with a US bank. Bring lots of cash. If you run out, Western Union is pretty much your only option.

I read online to bring Euros and Canadian dollars instead of United States Dollars (USD). Meh. Unless you have these other currencies already, it isn’t that much cheaper than converting directly from USD, even with the extra penalty. It’s probably not worth the hassle. Many touristy places accept USD directly anyway (ex: artists, prominent gift shops).

Exchange money at your hotel, not at the airport. Your hotel will usually have a better exchange rate than the airport, and they will already have your passport on file from when you checked in. Since most US travelers won’t be making frequent return trips to Cuba, you probably don’t want a bunch of extra Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUCs) at the end of your trip. To avoid this, exchange money as you go, and only exchange what you think you’ll need for the next few days.

Internet connectivity is sparse. Cell service is available, but wireless data isn’t really a thing in Cuba. You can send/receive texts (albeit expensively), but don’t expect to post to Instagram.

You’ll need to buy a WiFi card to connect, even at your hotel. The most popular ones (ex: 60 minutes) are often sold out, so you end up paying for more minutes than you may have wanted. Don’t expect reliable service or speed. Most hotels offer WiFi only in common areas, not in the rooms.

I used my trip to Cuba as a technology detox of sorts. It was refreshing! :) If someone couldn’t remember the name of an actor in a movie... too bad! You’re not going to Google it!

Bring anything you might need. I can’t reiterate this enough. High-end hotels usually provide shampoo and soap, but smaller hotels and B&Bs aren’t likely to do so. Same goes for towels. I didn’t end up needing my travel towel, but I was glad I had it just in case. Bring painkillers, bandaids, moleskin, first-aid ointment, sunscreen, bug spray, anti-itch cream, Pepto, Immodium/loperamide, Benedryl, cough drops, hand sanitizer… anything you might possibly need, because you. cannot. buy. it. there!

Camping/travel toilet paper is very useful. You will probably need it everywhere outside of your hotel. Some restaurants will have toilet paper, but it might be seriously limited. Like, the attendant might hand you 2 squares of toilet paper. I kept a roll in my bag at all times. Besides, you never know when you’ll need a tissue or napkin.

You will look like a tourist. You won’t be able to fly under the radar, especially when you have a camera in your hand. Common tourist scams are ‘cigar festivals’ or any ‘today only’ events or sales… skip them.

Many hotels have both European-style and US-style outlets. Beware (!) the dreaded US-style outlet that is actually 220v! If your devices aren’t dual voltage, you’ll need a converter. If your devices are dual voltage, an adapter will be fine. Make sure your converter or adapter can support your devices. Hairdryers and flatirons use a lot of power.

Souvenirs: You’re allowed to bring home rum, cigars, honey, etc. for personal use only (no re-selling). Rum and honey should be officially labeled, not in second-hand containers. You do you, but it might be confiscated. The honey sold in rum bottles was delicious, but I didn’t want to risk it being confiscated… so I sought out smaller, officially labeled jars of honey.

I packed extra bubble-wrap and gallon-size Ziplock bags for bringing home rum, beer, and honey. If I hadn't, I'm certain that my luggage would've been covered in honey from the inside out.

PB080521
Plaza de San Francisco de Asís at night

That’s all for now. I’m working on an article for each day of my trip in hopes of sharing what I learned and some of my favorite parts of the trip.

More info